Bakuchiol: The gentle revolution in anti-aging skincare
The search for a gentle anti-aging solution
For decades, retinol has been considered the gold standard in anti-aging skincare. However, for many women, retinol triggers a frustrating cycle of redness, flaking, and irritation, sometimes so severe that they discontinue treatment altogether. Pregnant and breastfeeding women face an even greater dilemma: the most effective anti-aging substance is off-limits for them. This is precisely where bakuchiol comes in – a plant-based active ingredient that promises what long seemed impossible: the full anti-aging power of retinol, but without its notorious side effects.
This comprehensive guide tells you everything you need to know about bakuchiol: from its scientific mechanisms of action and clinical studies to its optimal use. Whether you have sensitive skin, are pregnant, or are simply looking for a gentler alternative – this article provides the facts you need to make an informed decision.
What exactly is Bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is a meroterpene phenol extracted from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia—a plant used in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine for over 1,000 years. The name "bakuchiol" derives from the Sanskrit word "bakuchi," by which the plant is known in India. While the plant was valued in traditional medicine primarily for its healing properties in treating skin conditions, modern cosmetic science has discovered another aspect: bakuchiol possesses remarkable anti-aging properties similar to those of retinol—although the two molecules are structurally completely different.
This finding was surprising because, normally, active ingredients must be structurally similar to achieve similar effects. Bakuchiol, however, activates the same cellular signaling pathways as retinol, but via a functionally different route. Scientists refer to this as "functional analogy"—the active ingredient achieves the same goal, but through a different mechanism.
The science behind the effect
How bakuchiol works at the cellular level
To understand why bakuchiol is so effective, we need to take a brief look at the cellular level. Retinol's anti-aging effect is based on its ability to activate certain genes responsible for collagen production, cell renewal, and pigment regulation. This activation occurs via retinoic acid receptors (RARs and RXRs) in the cell nucleus.
A groundbreaking 2014 study by Chaudhuri and Bojanowski showed that bakuchiol stimulates many of the same genes as retinol—including genes for collagen types I, III, and IV, as well as genes involved in cell cycle regulation. The crucial difference: bakuchiol achieves this gene expression without activating retinoic acid receptors. Instead, it acts via alternative signaling pathways, which explains why it does not cause any of the typical retinoid side effects.
The clinical evidence: What do the studies say?
Arguably the most significant study on bakuchiol was published in the British Journal of Dermatology in 2019. In this randomized, double-blind study, researchers led by Dhaliwal et al. compared the efficacy of 0.5% bakuchiol (applied twice daily) with 0.5% retinol (applied once daily) over a 12-week period in 44 participants. The results were remarkable: Both groups showed a significant improvement in wrinkles and pigmentation, with no statistically significant difference in efficacy. The crucial difference lay in tolerability: The retinol group reported significantly more peeling and burning sensations, while the bakuchiol group experienced none of these side effects.
Another important study by Spierings from 2020 analyzed the available literature on bakuchiol and confirmed its effectiveness in reducing fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. The study particularly highlighted that bakuchiol also possesses antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that extend beyond its purely anti-aging effects.
Bakuchiol vs. Retinol: An honest comparison
Where Bakuchiol shines
The most obvious advantage of bakuchiol is its excellent tolerability. While retinol often causes redness, dryness, flaking, and a burning sensation in many users—the so-called "retinization"—bakuchiol remains gentle on the skin. This makes it the ideal choice for people with sensitive, reactive, or rosacea-prone skin, who often cannot tolerate retinol.
Another significant advantage: Bakuchiol does not increase the skin's sensitivity to light. Retinol makes the skin more sensitive to the sun, which is why it should typically only be used in the evening and requires careful sun protection. Bakuchiol, on the other hand, can be used morning and evening without any problems and even possesses its own antioxidant properties that can protect against UV-induced damage.
Perhaps the most important difference for many women: Bakuchiol is safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Retinol and other retinoids are strictly contraindicated during this time because they are potentially teratogenic – meaning they can cause birth defects. Bakuchiol offers pregnant women the opportunity to continue their anti-aging routine without compromising safety.
Where retinol (still) has advantages
To be fair, we must also mention the areas where retinol can be beneficial. For severe acne or pronounced sun-damaged skin, retinol has more clinical evidence and a longer research history. For these specific indications, retinol – under medical supervision – may be the better choice.
However, research shows that bakuchiol delivers equivalent results for the most common anti-aging needs – wrinkle reduction, improved skin texture, more even complexion – and with significantly better tolerability.
Safe during pregnancy: Why bakuchiol is the perfect choice
For pregnant and breastfeeding women, skincare is often a minefield. The hormonal changes during pregnancy can lead to increased pigmentation (the so-called "pregnancy glow" or its less desirable counterpart, melasma), acne, and accelerated skin aging. At the same time, many of the most effective ingredients are off-limits: retinol, salicylic acid in high concentrations, certain essential oils, and more.
Bakuchiol perfectly fills this gap. There is no evidence that bakuchiol is teratogenic or harmful during pregnancy or breastfeeding. On the contrary, its gentle, non-irritating nature makes it ideal for the often more sensitive skin during pregnancy.
This means pregnant women no longer have to choose between "effective skincare" and "safe skincare." With bakuchiol, they get both. It can help reduce pregnancy-related hyperpigmentation, support skin elasticity, and combat the first signs of wrinkles—all without risk to the baby.
Nevertheless, as with all skincare products during pregnancy, we recommend speaking with your gynecologist or midwife before use. Most experts, however, will confirm bakuchiol as a safe alternative to retinol.
How to use Bakuchiol correctly
The optimal concentration
Clinical studies have shown that concentrations between 0.5% and 2% are effective. Our Anti Everything Bakuchiol Face Oil contains 1% bakuchiol – a concentration that is demonstrably effective while remaining maximally tolerable.
The correct application
Unlike retinol, which requires a gradual introduction, you can use bakuchiol daily from the start. Optimal use:
Thoroughly cleanse and dry your face. Pour half a pipette of the oil serum into your palm and warm it briefly between your hands. Then apply it to your face, neck, and décolleté, massaging it in gently. Allow the oil to absorb completely before applying any other skincare products.
Morning or evening?
Since bakuchiol doesn't cause photosensitivity, you can theoretically use it morning and evening. However, most experts recommend evening application, as the skin enters regeneration mode at night and can absorb active ingredients more effectively. Furthermore, the nourishing oils in the bakuchiol serum can work optimally overnight.
If you want to use the serum in the morning, you should still apply sunscreen with at least SPF 30 – not because of the bakuchiol, but because sun protection is generally the most important anti-aging step.
Combinations: What works well?
Bakuchiol is a very well-tolerated team player. It harmonizes particularly well with vitamin C, which can be applied in the morning while the bakuchiol does its job in the evening. Hyaluronic acid can be applied both before and after the bakuchiol serum to maximize hydration. Niacinamide is another ideal partner, as both active ingredients combat pigmentation and strengthen the skin barrier.
One combination you should avoid: using bakuchiol and retinol at the same time. Since both have similar effects, the combination offers no additional benefit and could unnecessarily stress the skin.
The star product: Anti Everything Bakuchiol Face Oil
Our Anti Everything Bakuchiol Face Oil is more than just a bakuchiol serum – it is a luxurious skincare experience that combines seven precious organic oils with the power of 1% bakuchiol.
The ingredients in detail
Bakuchiol (1%): The star of the formulation. Clinically proven effective against wrinkles and age spots, yet gentle enough for sensitive skin and safe during pregnancy.
Organic jojoba oil: It most closely resembles natural skin sebum and is therefore absorbed particularly well. It regulates sebum production and is also suitable for oily skin.
Organic evening primrose oil: Rich in gamma-linolenic acid, an omega-6 fatty acid that has anti-inflammatory properties and strengthens the skin barrier. Particularly beneficial for dry skin prone to eczema.
Organic rosehip oil: A natural source of trans-retinoic acid, which synergistically supports the effects of bakuchiol. Rich in vitamins A and C, as well as essential fatty acids.
Organic strawberry oil: One of the most concentrated sources of ellagic acid, which has brightening properties and counteracts hyperpigmentation.
Organic raspberry oil: With its exceptionally high content of omega-3 fatty acids and natural sun protection factor, it is a true superfood for the skin.
Organic blueberry oil: Rich in antioxidants that neutralize free radicals and thus protect against premature skin aging.
Rose geranium: The essential oils of the rose geranium not only have a captivating fragrance, but also have a harmonizing effect on the skin and can help to reduce scars and stretch marks.
Frequently asked questions about Bakuchiol
How long will it take before I see results?
You'll often notice initial improvements in skin texture and feel after just 2-4 weeks of regular use. For visible changes in wrinkles and pigmentation, you should plan for at least 8-12 weeks – just like with retinol. Skincare is a marathon, not a sprint.
Can I use bakuchiol for acne?
Yes! Bakuchiol has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties that can be helpful for acne. It is non-comedogenic, meaning it doesn't clog pores. This makes it suitable even for blemish-prone skin.
Is bakuchiol really as good as retinol?
Clinical studies show that bakuchiol delivers comparable results to retinol for the most common anti-aging concerns – wrinkles, fine lines, and uneven skin tone. The major difference lies in its tolerability. For most women, bakuchiol is not only "as good as" retinol, but due to its gentle nature, it is actually the better choice.
Why is bakuchiol often more expensive than retinol?
Extracting bakuchiol from Psoralea corylifolia is more complex than synthetically producing retinol. Furthermore, the market is still smaller, which increases production costs. With rising demand, prices are expected to fall. Nevertheless, quality comes at a price, and for active ingredients that you apply directly to your face, quality should be a priority.
Can I use bakuchiol together with AHA/BHA peels?
Generally, yes, but with caution. Since bakuchiol, unlike retinol, does not sensitize the skin, the combination is less problematic. However, we still recommend using peels and bakuchiol on different evenings to avoid overwhelming the skin.
For whom is Bakuchiol particularly suitable?
Sensitive skin: If you always react to retinol with redness, burning and flaking, bakuchiol is your solution.
Pregnant and breastfeeding women: You can continue your anti-aging routine without worry.
For rosacea sufferers: The gentle, anti-inflammatory effect of bakuchiol makes it more tolerable for rosacea-prone skin than retinol.
First wrinkles at 25-35: If you want to start with preventative anti-aging, bakuchiol is a gentle way to begin.
Mature skin 45+: Bakuchiol can also help with advanced signs of skin aging – often even better than retinol, as mature skin tends to be drier and more sensitive.
Vegans and natural cosmetics fans: Bakuchiol is 100% plant-based and fits perfectly into a vegan, natural skincare routine.
Your next step
The revolution in anti-aging skincare is plant-based, gentle, and scientifically proven. Bakuchiol offers everything you expect from retinol – without the drawbacks. If you're ready to give your skin the best, our Anti Everything Bakuchiol Face Oil is the perfect place to start.
With 1% bakuchiol and seven luxurious organic oils, you nourish your skin night after night. No irritation. No compromises. Just radiant, youthful-looking skin.
This article is for informational purposes only and does not replace medical advice. If you have a skin condition or are pregnant, we recommend consulting a doctor before using any new product.
Scientific sources
- Chaudhuri, R.K., & Bojanowski, K. (2014). Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science , 36(3), 221-230.
- Dhaliwal, S., et al. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology , 180(2), 289-296.
- Spierings, NMK (2020). Cosmetic commentary: Is bakuchiol the new retinol? Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology , 19(5), 1045-1049.
- Draelos, Z.D. (2020). Novel cosmeceutical paradigms: Active botanicals in antiaging. Clinics in Dermatology , 38(5), 575-580.
- Bluemke, A., et al. (2022). Bakuchiol: A novel natural compound for the treatment of skin photoaging. Dermatologic Therapy , 35(1), e15210.