Pigmentation disorders & melasma: Everything about causes, treatment and what really helps
What is a pigmentation disorder – and what can I do about it?
Pigmentation disorders of the skin affect millions of women. Whether melasma , chloasma , or other forms of hyperpigmentation – the good news is: with the right knowledge and targeted care, you can treat pigmentation disorders and significantly improve your complexion.
In this comprehensive guide you will learn everything about the causes of pigment disorders , the different types, scientifically sound treatment methods and what really helps against pigment disorders .
What is a pigmentation disorder?
What exactly are pigment disorders ? A pigment disorder (also known as a skin pigment disorder ) is a change in normal skin color. It occurs when the melanocytes – the pigment-producing cells in your skin – produce too much or too little melanin.
Pigmentation disorders of the skin can manifest as:
- Hyperpigmentation: Dark, brown spots (too much melanin)
- Hypopigmentation: Light, white spots (too little melanin)
- Depigmentation: Complete loss of pigment
Draelos (2020) explains in her review article: The most common form is hyperpigmentation – i.e., pigmentation disorder, brown spots that are darker than the surrounding skin.
Skin pigmentation disorders: The different types
Pigment disorders can occur in various forms. The most important are:
1. Melasma (Chloasma)
What is melasma? Melasma (also called melasma chloasma or "mask of pregnancy") appears as symmetrical, brownish discolorations – typically on the forehead, cheeks, upper lip, and chin. The face is the most common location for melasma .
2. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)
Dark spots that remain after inflammation (pimples, injuries, eczema). Particularly common in darker skin types.
3. Age spots (lentigines)
Sun-induced pigment spots that appear with increasing age – especially on sun-exposed areas such as the face, hands and décolleté.
4. Freckles (Ephelides)
Freckles pigment disorder – yes, freckles are technically a form of pigment disorder, albeit a harmless one and often considered charming.
Understanding Melasma: Causes and Triggers
The causes of melasma are diverse. Ogbechie-Godec & Elbuluk (2017) identify the main triggers in their study:
Hormonal factors
Melasma during pregnancy: Hormonal changes during pregnancy are one of the most common triggers. Up to 70% of pregnant women develop some form of pigmentation disorder during pregnancy . It is commonly known as the "mask of pregnancy."
Melasma during menopause: Hormonal changes during menopause can also trigger or exacerbate pigment disorders in the face .
The pill and hormone therapy: Estrogen and progesterone stimulate melanin production. Women who take hormonal contraceptives have an increased risk of facial melasma .
Thyroid melasma: A link between thyroid dysfunction and melasma is being discussed in studies. Pigmentation disorders of the neck and thyroid gland can be an indication of hormonal imbalances.
UV radiation: The main trigger
Sun-induced pigment disorders – Sunlight is the most important external trigger for all forms of hyperpigmentation. Cestari et al. (2014) emphasize: Without consistent sun protection, no treatment for pigment disorders is sustainably successful.
Pigmentation disorders after sunburn: A severe sunburn can leave permanent pigment changes. The skin reacts to the UV damage with increased melanin production.
Other causes of pigment disorders
What other causes of pigment disorders ? Other factors:
- Genetic predisposition: Melasma occurs more frequently in families.
- Skin type: Darker skin types (Fitzpatrick III-VI) are more susceptible
- Medications: Certain antibiotics and antiepileptic drugs can cause photosensitization.
- Skin irritations: Aggressive cosmetics, excessive exfoliation
- Inflammation: acne, eczema, injuries → PIH
How does a pigmentation disorder develop? The mechanism is always similar: A trigger activates the melanocytes, which then produce excess melanin. This accumulates in the epidermis (epidermal pigmentation) or penetrates the dermis (dermal pigmentation).
Facial pigmentation disorders: The most common locations
Facial pigmentation disorders are the form that most distresses those affected. Typical locations include:
Melasma forehead
Forehead melasma appears as a band-like discoloration above the eyebrows. This centrofacial distribution is typical for hormonally induced melasma. Sun exposure exacerbates this pigmentation disorder on the forehead .
Melasma upper lip
Melasma of the upper lip – also known as "upper lip milia" – is one of the most common and cosmetically bothersome locations. This pigmentation disorder of the upper lip occurs particularly in women with darker skin tones.
Pigment disorder in other parts of the body
Pigment disorders can also occur in other parts of the body:
- Pigmentation disorder of the neck: Often in combination with facial pigmentation
- Pigmentation disorder arm / Pigmentation disorder arms: Sun-exposed areas
- Pigment disorder of the hand: Age spots on the back of the hand
- Pigmentation disorder of the back: After sunburn or inflammation
- Abdominal pigment disorder: Linea nigra in pregnancy
- Pigmentation disorder of the legs: PIH after insect bites or injuries
- Pigmentation disorder on the abdomen: Hormonally caused or after skin irritation
Treating pigment disorders: What really helps?
You're wondering: What to do about pigmentation disorders? Or: How to get rid of pigmentation disorders? Pigmentation disorder treatment is based on three pillars:
1. Sun protection: The basis of every treatment
Sunscreen is not optional for people with pigmentation disorders – it is essential. Desai (2014) confirms: Without consistent UV protection, any skin-lightening treatment is doomed to failure.
Sun protection for pigmentation disorders – the rules:
- SPF 30-50 daily, even on cloudy days
- Broad-spectrum protection (UVA + UVB)
- Reapply cream every 2 hours
- Additionally, a hat and sunglasses
2. Topical active ingredients: Pigmentation disorder cream & serum
What can be done about pigmentation disorders? The most effective topical ingredients:
Tyrosinase inhibitors:
- Kojic acid: Natural brightener from fermented rice
- Vitamin C: Antioxidant with brightening effect
- Arbutin: Plant tyrosinase inhibitor
- Niacinamide: Blocks melanin transfer
Chang (2009) documented that tyrosinase inhibitors such as kojic acid can reduce melanin production by up to 90%.
Melasma cream – what to look for? A good pigmentation cream should contain:
- Brightening agents (kojic acid, vitamin C)
- Antioxidants (Vitamin E)
- Moisturizer
- No irritating ingredients
The Dark Spot Face Cream (€79.90) combines kojic acid with vitamin C and nourishing organic oils – ideal for daily treatment of facial pigmentation disorders .
For targeted spot treatment: The Dark Spot Care Serum (€59.90) with 1% kojic acid as a hyperpigmentation serum .
3. Exfoliation: Accelerating cell renewal
Regular exfoliation accelerates cell renewal and thus the removal of pigmented skin cells. Sarkar et al. (2012) confirm its effectiveness in treating hyperpigmentation.
The Brightening Face & Body Exfoliator (€59.90) combines gentle exfoliating particles with kojic acid – double action for treating pigmentation disorders .
Melasma removal: Treatment options
Can melasma be removed ? The honest answer: Melasma is a chronic condition that can be well controlled but rarely completely cured. The good news: With consistent treatment, significant improvements are possible.
Melasma Treatment: The Holistic Approach
Melasma treatment requires patience and consistency. Cabanes et al. (2020) recommend a multimodal approach:
The optimal routine for melasma on the face:
Morning:
- Gentle cleansing
- Vitamin C Serum
- Moisturizer
- Sunscreen SPF 50
At evening:
- Thorough cleaning
- Apply kojic acid serum to affected areas
- Brightening cream applied to the entire face
2-3 times per week:
Chloasma removal: Special considerations
Removing chloasma (pregnancy melasma) has a unique aspect: In many women, the pigmentation fades on its own after pregnancy once hormone levels normalize. However, targeted skincare can accelerate this process – during breastfeeding, be sure to use products without questionable ingredients.
Healing melasma from within
Can melasma be healed from the inside ? Some approaches:
- Antioxidants: Vitamins C and E, and polyphenols can protect the skin from within.
- Omega-3 fatty acids: Support the skin barrier
- Check thyroid function: If you suspect a thyroid problem with melasma, consult a doctor.
- Hormone status: In cases of pronounced melasma, gynecological consultation is recommended.
Telang (2013) confirms: Oral antioxidants can support topical treatments, but do not replace them.
Removing pigmentation disorders: Professional options
If topical treatments are insufficient, there are professional options for removing pigmentation disorders :
Chemical peels
Peels with glycolic acid, salicylic acid, or TCA can significantly improve pigmentation disorders . Sarkar et al. (2012) show good results in melasma and PIH.
Laser therapy
Various types of lasers can treat facial pigmentation disorders . Important: Not every laser is suitable for every skin type. Darker skin types are at risk of paradoxical hyperpigmentation.
Microdermabrasion
Mechanical removal of the top layer of skin can improve superficial pigment disorders of the skin .
Can a pigmentation disorder disappear again?
Can a pigmentation disorder disappear? That depends on the type:
Yes, with a good prognosis:
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) – often fades on its own
- Pregnancy melasma – often improves after childbirth
- Mild, superficial pigment disorder
More difficult to treat:
- Chronic melasma with dermal component
- Long-standing, deep pigment disorders
- Severe pigment disorder with a genetic component
Sudden pigmentation disorder – what to do? If a pigmentation disorder occurs suddenly and without any apparent trigger, you should consult a dermatologist to rule out serious causes.
What can be done about pigmentation disorders on the face?
What can be done about pigmentation disorders on the face? Here are the most important tips summarized:
The basic rules
- Consistent sun protection – every day, even in winter
- Tyrosinase inhibitors – kojic acid, vitamin C, niacinamide
- Patience – results after 8-12 weeks
- Consistency – stick to your daily routine
- No skin irritation – use gentle products
What helps against pigmentation disorders: The routine
What is the most effective treatment for pigmentation disorders ? This combination:
- Morning: Vitamin C + sunscreen
- Evening: Kojic acid serum + brightening cream
- Weekly: Gentle exfoliation
Frequently asked questions about pigmentation disorders and melasma
What is a pigmentation disorder and how does it develop?
A pigmentation disorder is a change in normal skin color caused by impaired melanin production. How do pigmentation disorders develop? The melanocytes (pigment-producing cells) produce too much or too little melanin – triggered by hormones, UV radiation, inflammation, or genetic factors. The most common form is hyperpigmentation, characterized by dark, brown spots.
What is melasma and what is the difference between melasma and chloasma?
What is melasma? Melasma is a specific type of facial pigmentation disorder characterized by symmetrical, brownish discoloration on the forehead, cheeks, upper lip, and chin. Melasma and chloasma are often used interchangeably – chloasma specifically refers to pregnancy-related melasma ("mask of pregnancy"). Treatment for melasma is the same for both.
Why do people get pigment disorders?
Why do people develop pigment disorders? The causes of pigment disorders are varied: hormonal changes (pregnancy, birth control pills, menopause), UV radiation, genetic predisposition, skin inflammation, and certain medications. Melasma is primarily caused by hormonal factors and UV exposure. Sun exposure is the most common external trigger for pigment disorders.
Can a pigmentation disorder disappear again?
Yes, a pigmentation disorder can disappear again – depending on the type. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation often fades on its own. Melasma during pregnancy frequently improves after childbirth. Chronic melasma can be controlled, but rarely completely cured. With consistent treatment ( pigmentation cream , sunscreen), significant improvements are possible.
What to do about pigmentation disorders on the face.
What to do about facial pigmentation disorders ? The most important measures: consistent sun protection (SPF 50), brightening agents such as kojic acid and vitamin C, and gentle exfoliation to promote cell renewal. The Dark Spot Face Cream and Dark Spot Serum are specifically designed to treat facial pigmentation disorders .
Which cream helps with pigmentation disorders?
A good cream for hyperpigmentation should contain tyrosinase inhibitors such as kojic acid, vitamin C, niacinamide, or arbutin. Melasma creams should also contain antioxidants and moisturizing ingredients. Look for certified natural cosmetics without irritating additives. Results are visible after 8-12 weeks.
Is sun protection important for people with pigmentation disorders?
Sun protection is essential for hyperpigmentation ! UV radiation is the main trigger for hyperpigmentation. Without sunscreen, any treatment for hyperpigmentation is ineffective. Use SPF 30-50 daily, even on cloudy days, and reapply every two hours. Pigmentation disorders after sunburn demonstrate the importance of prevention.
How long does it take for pigmentation disorders to fade?
The first visible results of consistent treatment for melasma appear after 8-12 weeks. Complete lightening can take 3-6 months or longer. Removing melasma requires a great deal of patience – it is a chronic condition that must be managed long-term. Consistency is key!
Conclusion: Successfully treating pigmentation disorders
Pigmentation disorders of the skin – whether melasma , PIH, or age spots – can be significantly improved with the right approach. The keys to success:
- Understand: Know the cause of your pigmentation disorder
- Protect yourself: Sunscreen for pigmentation disorders – every day!
- Treat with: Tyrosinase inhibitors such as kojic acid and vitamin C
- Patience: Results take time (8-12 weeks)
- Consequence: Maintain your daily routine
Your routine for treating pigmentation disorders:
- Evening: Apply Dark Spot Serum to affected areas
- Then: Apply Dark Spot Face Cream to the entire face.
- 2-3 times per week: Brightening Exfoliator
- In the morning: Sunscreen SPF 50 – always!
COSMOS natural certified • Vegan • Dermatologically tested
Scientific sources
- Draelos, ZD (2020): "Skin lightening preparations and the hydroquinone controversy." Dermatologic Clinics, 38(4), 475-484. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32892854/
- Ogbechie-Godec, OA & Elbuluk, N. (2017): "Melasma: an up-to-date comprehensive review." Dermatology and Therapy, 7(3), 305-318. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28973803/
- Cestari, T. F. et al. (2014): "Photoprotection in specific populations." Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia, 89(6), 96-111. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24431713/
- Desai, SR (2014): "Hyperpigmentation therapy: A review." The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 7(8), 13-17. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24765227/
- Chang, TS (2009): "An updated review of tyrosinase inhibitors." International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 10(6), 2440-2475. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19250209/
- Cabanes, J. et al. (2020): "Kojic acid, a cosmetic skin whitening agent, is a slow-binding inhibitor of catecholase activity of tyrosinase." Journal of Enzyme Inhibition and Medicinal Chemistry, 35(1), 1-8. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30264126/
- Sarkar, R. et al. (2012): "Chemical peels for melasma in dark-skinned patients." Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery, 5(4), 247-253. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23112523/
- Telang, PS (2013): "Vitamin C in dermatology." Indian Dermatology Online Journal, 4(2), 143-146. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23135663/
- Hakozaki, T. et al. (2002): "The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer." British Journal of Dermatology, 147(1), 20-31. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12100180/
- Sarkar, R. et al. (2013): "Cosmeceuticals for hyperpigmentation: What is available?" Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery, 6(1), 4-11. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23374449/