Retinol peeling: Why your skin is peeling – and what really helps

You started using retinol and now your skin is peeling? You look worse than before and are wondering if that's normal?

The short answer: Yes, this can be normal – but it doesn't have to be. In this article, you'll learn everything about retinol peels, skin purging, and the initial worsening of your skin's condition. How long does it last? When will it get better? And is there an alternative that avoids this period of discomfort?

What is a retinol peel?

When we talk about "retinol peeling", we don't mean a cosmetic product, but a side effect: the skin peels due to the application of retinol. This is the so-called retinol initial worsening [1] .

What happens during this process?

Retinol accelerates cell renewal. Normally, the skin renews itself every 28 days. Retinol shortens this cycle to 14-21 days. The result: Old skin cells are shed more quickly – and you see this as peeling [2] .

Skin Purging: The Initial Worsening of the Skin Explained

Skin purging is the technical term for the initial worsening of the skin condition. It describes the phase in which the skin initially looks worse before it improves.

Skin purging symptoms:

• Retinol causes skin to peel on cheeks, forehead, and chin.
• Redness and irritation
• Increased impurities (blackheads come to the surface)
• Dryness and tightness
• Increased light sensitivity

Skin Purging Duration: How long does it take?

The question "How long does the initial skin worsening last?" is one of the most frequently asked. Here's the timeline:

The duration of skin purging is therefore typically 4-6 weeks. In sensitive skin, the initial worsening can last up to 12 weeks [3] .

Retinol Peel Before and After: What You Can Expect

What happens to your skin during a retinol peel? Here's a typical before and after picture of a retinol peel:

Before (Day 0):

• Normal skin with possible wrinkles, pigment spots or blemishes
• No acute irritations

Weeks 1-4 (initial worsening):

• Retinol skin visibly peels
• Redness, especially in sensitive areas
• Possibly more pimples than before (purging)
• Skin feels tight and dry

Afterwards (weeks 8-12):

• Smoother, finer skin texture
• Reduced pores
• More even complexion
• First wrinkle reduction visible

Retinol peeling experiences: What users report

Experiences with retinol peels vary greatly – depending on skin type, concentration, and application. Studies show that approximately 50% of users experience side effects in the first few weeks [4] .

Typical retinol peeling experiences:

• "My skin peeled for 3 weeks" – especially on my cheeks and chin
• "I looked worse than ever before" – The initial worsening of symptoms can be psychologically stressful.
• "After 8 weeks my skin was like new" – For some, perseverance pays off.
• "I gave up after 2 weeks" – Many quit because the side effects are too severe.

Initial worsening due to other active ingredients

Skin purging and initial worsening of the skin condition are not limited to retinol. Other active ingredients can also trigger this reaction:

Niacinamide Initial aggravation

Initial worsening of symptoms after using niacinamide is rare. Niacinamide does not accelerate cell renewal as much as retinol. If you experience skin problems after using niacinamide, it is more likely an allergic reaction or intolerance – not true purging [5] .

Azelaic acid initial aggravation

Initial worsening of symptoms with azelaic acid is possible, but usually milder than with retinol. Azelaic acid can cause slight redness or tingling during the first 1-2 weeks. Severe purging with breakouts is rare.

BHA Initial Worsening

An initial worsening of BHA (salicylic acid) can occur because BHA cleanses the pores and brings blockages to the surface. The duration is usually shorter than with retinol – about 2-4 weeks.

Vitamin C skin initial worsening

An initial worsening of the skin's condition after using vitamin C is unusual. Vitamin C does not cause true purging. When the skin reacts to vitamin C, it is usually due to irritation from the acid, not accelerated cell renewal.

Benzoyl peroxide initial aggravation

An initial worsening of acne is common with benzoyl peroxide treatments. Benzoyl peroxide dries out the skin and can lead to increased breakouts in the first few weeks before the antibacterial effect takes hold.

Retinol peel costs: How much does the treatment cost?

When we talk about the cost of retinol peels, there are two options:

Professional retinol peel at a doctor's office/cosmetician:

Home use with retinol products:

• Retinol Serum: €15-80
• Retinol cream: €20-100
• Side effects: Free, but unpleasant

The alternative: anti-aging without retinol peeling

What if you could have the anti-aging benefits of retinol – without skin purging, without initial breakouts, without weeks of peeling?

Bidens pilosa makes this possible. The plant-based active ingredient activates similar cell renewal processes as retinol, but via a gentler mechanism [6] .

Biden's Pilosa vs. Retinol: Initial worsening in comparison

Clinical studies confirm the efficacy of Bidens Pilosa in improving skin texture and wrinkles – without the typical retinoid side effects [7] .

Our solution: SheCARE Retinol Alternative

We have developed three products with Bidens Pilosa – for anti-aging without suffering:

Retinol Alternative Serum

The highly concentrated anti-aging serum. No skin purging, no initial worsening – only results.
€79.90 | 30 ml

Retinol Alternative Eye Serum

Specifically formulated for the sensitive eye area. Without the peeling that retinol would cause there.
€59.90 | 15 ml

Retinol Alternative Moisturizer

The daily anti-aging moisturizing cream. Tolerated from day one.
€79.90 | 50 ml

All products are COSMOS natural certified and vegan.

Who is the retinol alternative suitable for?

The SheCARE Retinol alternative is perfect for you if you:

• You don't feel like spending weeks on skin purging?
• You have already tried retinol and not tolerated it well.
• You have sensitive skin that tends to worsen initially.
• are pregnant or breastfeeding
• Anti-aging without retinol peel costs
• If you want to start immediately, without an adjustment period

FAQs: Frequently Asked Questions

What is skin purging and how long does it take?

Skin purging is an initial worsening of the skin condition, during which clogged pores become more visible on the surface. Skin purging typically lasts 4-6 weeks. After this period, the skin's appearance should improve – otherwise, you may not tolerate the active ingredient.

Why does my skin peel when I use retinol?

If the skin peels due to retinol, this is because of accelerated cell renewal. Retinol shortens the skin renewal cycle from 28 to 14-21 days. The old skin cells are shed more quickly, which becomes visible as peeling.

How long does the initial worsening of symptoms from retinol last?

The initial retinol flare-up typically lasts 2-6 weeks. With sensitive skin, it can last up to 8-12 weeks. If symptoms don't subside after 12 weeks, retinol may not be suitable for your skin.

Is initial worsening of symptoms normal when taking niacinamide?

Initial worsening of symptoms after taking niacinamide is rare, as niacinamide doesn't significantly accelerate cell renewal. If you experience skin problems after using niacinamide, it's more likely an allergic reaction than purging.

Is there an initial worsening of symptoms with azelaic acid?

Initial breakouts with azelaic acid are possible, but milder than with retinol. Azelaic acid can cause slight redness in the first few weeks. True purging with breakouts is less common.

What are typical retinol peel experiences?

Typical experiences with retinol peels include: peeling of the skin on the cheeks, chin, and forehead, redness and tightness, increased sensitivity, and dry patches. Approximately 50% of users report these side effects.

How much does a professional retinol peel cost?

A professional retinol peel costs €80-250 per session. With 3-6 sessions required, this amounts to a total of €240-1,500. Alternatives include a retinol serum for home use or a plant-based alternative without peeling.

Is there a retinol alternative that doesn't peel and cause initial breakouts?

Yes, Bidens Pilosa is a plant-based alternative with similar anti-aging effects – but without skin purging, peeling, or initial worsening of symptoms. The active ingredient is also suitable for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

Conclusion: Your skin doesn't have to suffer.

Retinol peeling, skin purging, initial worsening of the skin – these are all real side effects that many users experience. The question is: Does it have to be this way?

If you're prepared to endure 4-12 weeks of discomfort, retinol can deliver great results. But if you have sensitive skin, are pregnant, or simply don't want to deal with peeling and redness, there is an alternative.

Bidens Pilosa offers you uncompromising anti-aging. No initial worsening of symptoms, no waiting period for skin purging, no retinol peel costs. Just results.

→ Discover the Retinol Alternative Serum now

Sources

[1] Mukherjee, S. et al. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging , 1(4), 327-348. PubMed

[2] Fisher, GJ et al. (1996). Molecular basis of sun-induced premature skin aging and retinoid antagonism. Nature , 379(6563), 335-339. PubMed

[3] Zasada, M. & Budzisz, E. (2019). Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology , 36(4), 392-397. PubMed

[4] Yoham, AL & Casadesus, D. (2023). Tretinoin. StatPearls . PubMed

[5] Bissett, D.L. et al. (2005). Niacinamide: AB vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery , 31(7), 860-865. PubMed

[6] Bartolome, AP et al. (2013). Bidens pilosa L.: A review of its traditional use, phytochemistry and pharmacology. Journal of Ethnopharmacology , 149(3), 601-619. PubMed

[7] Clinical study on the efficacy of Bidens pilosa extract (2019). International Journal of Cosmetic Science . PubMed

[8] Yang, W. C. (2014). Botanical, pharmacological, phytochemical aspects of Bidens pilosa L. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine . PubMed